千禧公园的微缩房间

速冻水饺

美国最大的好处就是到处都是植被茂密的冲积平原并且没有历史过于悠久的城市。之所以这么说是因为几乎所有积淀五百年以上的城市，都难以避免历史蓝图造成的规划局限，堵车丶人口密度太大丶地铁修建困难，这些事在美国似乎都不是问题。一望无际而笔直的道路规划，整齐的区块规划，合理的人口分布和公共交通线路。当然，最重要的是占地巨大的公园和公共设施往往立足于城市最繁华地价最高，看似最不会有大片绿地的地方。几乎每座美国大城市的市中心都有可以做为地标的构图宏大的公园，在芝加哥，这个公园叫做“千禧公园” (Millennium Park)。
千禧公园位于芝加哥绝对的核心地带，它西侧的Michigan Ave的对面齐刷刷的矗立着一排排摩天大楼，这里是芝加哥甚至是整个美国的金融中心，而公园的东侧则是一望无际的看着极像海洋的密歇根湖岸线。
这座年轻的公园扩建自伊利诺伊中央铁路的停车场（美国的停车场都是多大啊？），更精确的说，它让人惊叹的被构建在这座服务整个市中心的巨大停车场上面，在绿树成荫的人行步道下隐藏着9000个公共车位。这种天才设计的背后表现出美国人缔造城市的理念，装饰与实用完美的结合，一切的城市建设，都是为了人们生活的便利。而当年支持这种略带冒险意味的大胆设计的市长，也永远被市民充满感激的记在了心中。
公园2004年才正式竣工，从那时起这里就成了芝加哥最吸引人的旅游区域，同时也是众多演出以及公众活动的重要地点，其中最吸引眼球的是园内的几座写入建筑学教科书的后现代建筑。相信很多人都看过有关“云门”（Cloud Gate）的照片，尽管我没有仔细琢磨为什么这个110吨重的不锈钢蚕豆和“云”扯上关系，看来大部分本地人更喜欢称之为“豆子”。关于这个名字的谜可能会在你站在它近前的时候露出一些马脚来，当你仰头看着它光滑表面上的倒影，它把周围的建筑丶广场上的人群还有天空做为表达的工具，那种现实与倒影一线之隔的感觉或许还是“云门”这个美丽些的名字更加相称。
云门的东边是“芝加哥露天音乐厅”，这里是芝加哥各种音乐节的举办地点，巨大的白色钢梁在草坪上方搭出顶棚的形状，估计这里有时候也会装上屋顶成为室内场馆。
云门的西南侧是另一件引人入胜的创意建筑，“皇冠喷泉”是一片湿漉漉的场地，场地的两侧安置有两座15米高的LED屏幕，屏幕里循环播放1000张芝加哥市民的笑脸照片，这些人像照片还会时不时的变换表情，象征着芝加哥人欢迎着全世界的客人。最有意思的是这些人像照片每隔几分钟就会做出噘嘴的样子，随之也会有一股猛烈的水流从他们嘴里吐出来，吐上一会儿水之后，LED屏幕里的人还会坏笑一番，感觉十分轻松可爱。皇冠喷泉在炎炎夏日具有相当的功能性，它让暴晒的公园广场看起来凉快许多，很多市民会在喷泉里玩闹，就算是稍微有些寒冷的现在也有很多人坐在附近享受这种安逸舒适。
云门的南侧是一座笔直的，一眼看不到头儿的白色步道（准确的说是座桥），这座通往“芝加哥美术馆”（Art Institute of Chicago）的Nichols Bridge以大概十几度仰角的角度往上爬升，整个桥身除了头尾之外没有一根桥墩。它就像是一束白光一样划过几乎整个千禧公园，桥上的视野非常清新，白色清爽的桥身映衬在芝加哥如画的城市景象里，让人觉得连走路都轻松了许多。
Nichols Bridge直通芝加哥美术馆的3楼，里面有一个露天的观景台，上面正放着几组颜色鲜艳的装置艺术作品，看不太明白它们讲的是什么，在远处高楼大厦映衬下，这些干净干练的作品似乎是在象征着城市外表下人类本源的一些东西。美术馆的入口在一楼，与美国只要是景点就一定有品种丰富的纪念品商店的规律所对应，这里也有一个硕大的商店，出售很多有趣的创意小玩意儿。另外美术馆里还有三家品质与格调相当不错的餐厅可以让人把一整天的时间都完全交给这里，如果不下雨的话，位于中庭里绿树成荫的咖啡厅会是我的首选。
说到这里还是要提一句十分值得拥有的“Chicago CityPass”，用这本小小的票卷让游客可以观光芝加哥的7个最出名景点之中的5个，芝加哥美术馆就是其中不容错过的一站。在CityPass中美术馆和“阿德勒天文馆”（Adler Planetarium）需要二选其一，个人觉得美术馆比天文馆更加容易理解，并且其中耳熟能详的着名展品实在诱人，因此毅然选择了前者。其实东海岸的几座主要城市都有类似的票卷，但一同侦查下来感觉还是芝加哥的CityPass含金量最高，收录的都是货真价实的优秀博物馆与景点，而五个景点加起来84美金，可比单独买票要便宜一半。

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