芝加哥印象之异域风情

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一提起芝加哥，人们首先想到的是公牛队丶五大湖丶西尔斯大厦，这些美好的印象已经被人们无数次津津乐道。
      十月初的一个午后，我们从初秋的上海飞抵这座城市，开始了对她的访问。
      刚下飞机，迎面就是一股股寒冷的风。气温降到了零下2摄氏度。芝加哥是全世界着名的风城，由于特殊的地理位置和城市的高楼效应，芝加哥整个冬季都被寒冷的风包围着。风从四面来，辨不清方向，是那种立体的丶无法抵御的凛冽的风。
      100多年前，芝加哥遭遇了一场毁灭性的大火，几乎把整座城市吞噬。在这之后重建的过程中，设计师们第一次把“经营城市”的理念引入到建设城市中。从供水丶供电丶污水处理到园林丶绿化丶城市交通，全都布局有致，至今仍不落后。芝加哥的建筑并不注重外表的华丽。大到曾经世界第一的西尔斯大厦，小到一幢幢别墅，一律是堆积木似的，方方的，有棱有角。它更注重建筑物自身的功能，以人为本，使人真正成为建筑物的主人。舒适自然，随心所欲，乃至最终形成世界建筑学界着名的“芝加哥”学派。
      走在密歇根湖边，你会惊叹上帝对美国这片土地的恩赐。密歇根湖丶苏必利尔湖丶休伦湖丶伊利湖和安大略湖这五大湖连成了世界上最大的淡水湖区。这里的淡水几乎占了全世界淡水的1／4。为了保护这块圣地，美国伊利诺伊州法律规定，沿湖1公里宽，60公里长的范围内，不允许有任何私人用地。湖边一排排大树，一块块草坪，一座座喷泉成为芝加哥市民最大的休闲花园。历经几百年，湖水未受到一丝一毫的污染。深蓝的湖水，清新的空气，成群的海鸟和一望无际的湖滨大道已经成为芝加哥人最引以自豪的城市象征。
      然而，当你一走进芝加哥的地铁，刚刚留下的那些美好印象就会迅速地一扫而光。地铁车站里，又暗又脏，酒瓶丶烟头丶纸屑随处可见。经常会有成群的黑人在里面追逐丶打斗和叫嚣。你根本不知道他们吼着什么，他们对着墙，或者干脆趴在铁轨上，也许是在发泄他们的不满吧。但你必须随时提高警惕，因为稍不留意就会有一个醉汉或者乞讨者与你撞个满怀。更让人无法容忍的是地铁的噪声。芝加哥的地铁不是都在地下，它是一段在地下，一段在地面。据说这是依据地形，随势而建。当地铁驶上地面时，巨大的响声使整个地面都震颤，呼啸而来，咣当而去，不仅破坏了安静，更破坏了人们的心境。噪音污染已经成为当今芝加哥老百姓埋怨丶政府头疼的一大公害。
      芝加哥印象当然远不止这些。有好的，有不好的；有些如过往云烟，有些却长留心间。我们几个人住的是一套公寓，公寓的厨房使用的是电炉，有四个灶头，灶头的下面是一只烤箱。一次，我们在使用电炉时，无意碰到一个开关。不一会儿，整个房间烟雾弥漫，我们却不知何故，赶紧把房门打开，结果弄得整个走廊全是烟雾。正在大家手足无措时，忽听公寓楼下警笛大作，紧接着上来两位高大的警察。他们“气势汹汹”地闯进房间，关掉烤箱开关，又从楼下拉来一台鼓风机，对着楼梯口猛吹一通。一待浓烟散去，警察叽哩呱啦把我们几个狠狠教训了一顿。我们自知理亏，也不辩解，等他们训完了，走了，我们相视一笑。心想，事情总算过去。第二天，来了一张罚单，罚款300美元……


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